Stockfish, or cod preserved by drying, made its first appearance in Italy according to the testimony of a Venetian nobleman, Pietro Querini, who was shipwrecked in the Lofoten Islands in northern Norway over the Arctic Circle, in 1432.
Querini had the privilege of being the first to observe and then describe, once back at home, the fishing and preparation.
It was not until 1758, however, that the Swedish naturalist Linnaeus classified the cod as Gadus Morhua.

AN IDEAL SEA AND TEMPERATURE

It is no coincidence that the islands of Lofoten are prime areas for fishing for cod and, as a result, Norway is the largest producer of dried cod, as well as salted cod, or baccalà.
At the beginning of every year, in fact, millions of cod leave the large fish stocks in the Barents Sea and begin a long migration which ends in the clear waters surrounding the islands.

Here, are the ideal conditions for laying their eggs regarding temperature and environment.

Between March and April, the waters of the area are rich in plankton, which is the fish’s first food as soon as they hatch from their eggs.
After birth, during a period of two to three years, they are carried by the current to the Barents Sea, where they remain for several years, from seven to ten, until it’s time to return to their place of birth for their turn reproduce eggs.
This peculiar, biological phenomenon is repeated regularly every year and gives rise to the largest fishing expedition in the world.
During their long journey to the breeding waters, the cod change their diets and develop a kind of white, solid meat.
The specimen that arrive in the Lofoten Islands between January and April are called by the Norwegians “skrei”-a word of ancient origin that refers both to the motion made by the fish and the fact that they are moving in large herds.

Of course, this event created a network of key business around itself in the Norwegian economy, at least for this area.

In fact, about 2,000 fishermen live in Lofoten.
Every year, for the great fishing expedition, even amateur fishermen join in, attracted by the opportunity to participate in an almost miraculous fishing experience.
Although the technique has remained essentially the same, progress has, however, brought about some positive changes.
The lives of the “seafarers” have become relatively easy compared to the considerable risks that they once faced.
The ancestors of the fishermen of our contemporaries actually once reached the best fishing spots by lowering themselves into the sea on small boats that carried one or two men.
Unfortunately, it was very common to disappear at sea during a fishing trip.
This occurred so much that a study at the end of the nineteenth century indicated that during the observed period, there had been more casualties among those involved in the fisheries than those in war.

BONY FISH WITH EXTENDED BODIES

In short, this is a risky business that requires professionalism and skilled reflexes.
The extended, round, slightly compressed body is characteristic of a bony fish.
The head is small and the mouth is equipped with many small teeth suitable to hold the food that it encounters as it swims along its route.
The face has a tiny thorn.
Cod is proven to be of primary commercial importance for its organoleptic characteristics: white and tender meat with little waste, rich in protein and lacking entirely of fat.
This small detail makes it ideal for storage.

Specifically, 100 grams of stockfish contain 15 grams of water (330 kcal), 79 grams of protein, 1.4 of fat, 100 milligrams of calcium, and 2.5 milligrams of iron.

So, the codfish is an excellent source of protein, not to mention vitamin B.
Among the family Gadidae (which has about 200 species), Gadus Morhua is the most sought-after. In fact, the fish can be kept cool, but it can also be frozen, smoked, or canned.

A PROCESS WHICH DATES BACK TO THE VIKINGS

The “main” preparation of the cod flesh is to this day a process of drying.
This reduces the stockfish and the final product, when salt retention occurs and the meat is partially dehydrated, is called baccalà.
The two processes, the oldest is certainly drying. In fact, even if there is no reliable evidence on the origins of cod, they certainly preceded the first text that talks about the fish and it dates back to the year 400.
One can assume, moreover, that the actual stockfish was among the supply that made possible the survival of Erick the Red and his crew of Vikings during their long sea voyages.
Even then, the practicality of endless meals of dry fish was well understood.
The only condition was that it must be kept in cool, dry storage, since humidity can negatively affect it.

Once caught, the freshly caught cod are beheaded and gutted.
They are then hung and tied in pairs to dry on wooden trellises.
The cold, dry air of the area does the rest.
The best temperature for a good preservation is a few degrees above zero Celsius.
The fish dries before it can begin any process of putrefaction.
Once dried, the cod take the form of a nubby stick, hence the name stockfish, which means “fish stick” (stock, in the North, means sharpened stick).
Another hypothesis, however, states that the name derives from that of Thor who, according to Viking mythology, is the god of strength.
If this is the origin, the name could have been given to compliment the energetic qualities of the stockfish.

The first hypothesis, however, seems more credible.
Although, it is also true that when dried, the cod becomes a major source of energy.
As the water diminishes, the nutritional value remains the same; the nutrients actually become concentrated.
One kilogram of dried fish equals about 5 kilograms of fresh fish.

A CENTURIES-OLD PRESENCE ON OUR TABLES

The continuous development of the export of Norwegian stockfish signifies the presence of this food in more than 30 countries.
The largest markets besides Italy are Nigeria, Sweden, Cameron, United States, and Germany. In Italy, the stockfish has played a respected role for many centuries.
The oldest Italian recipes are those from Genoa and Venice, the first cities reached by this food, followed by Naples and Sicily.
We should not assume, however, that the tradition of cod has been monopolized by coastal cities, where, of course, fresh fish have always taken a leading role.
The dry type was often marketed inland.
That is why even in areas far from the sea, such as Trentino, recipes of ancient tradition can be found. The spread of cod in Italy contributed to several historical influences.
One fundamental influence was Spanish domination, which imported to our country, after the Council of Trent, the rule of eating lean (Fridays and during times of fasting).
In traditional Italian cuisine, stockfish has been enriched by typically peninsular ingredients such as tomatoes, onions, garlic, olives, capers, and olive oil.

AMONG THE MANY QUALITIES, THE BEST IS CALLED SPIDER

This type of stockfish is characterized by a “spider” rib that you can see by looking through it. To simplify the preparation, you can buy it already soaked into strips. In this case, you must pay attention to the thickness, which must be consistent, as well as to the meat.
The meat should be white, but not too white since that may be evidence of artificial bleaching.
For those who prefer to do it themselves, the stockfish is wrought with care.
Then, they must be soaked, preferably in running water.
For a whole stockfish it takes about six days to soak (if there are only four pieces).

The Italian market is one of the most attentive and sensitive to the typical product of Lofoten.
It is a concern that has been developed in recent years thanks to the renewed interest in regional cuisine.
To guarantee the presence of a product of quality in our market, and to promote the gastronomic value further, the “Association for the Development of Stockfish” was created in 1997.
Nineteen companies are involved in this association-all producers and exporters of this food-which together account for 65% of the local market in Norway.
Many of the initiatives in which catering was directly involved were unforeseen-a potential manufacturer of a renewed interest in stockfish, thanks to its constant use in traditional menus.

STOCKFISH DUMPLINGS

Preparation Time: 60 minutes
Ingredients for 6 people:
21 oz soaked stockfish- 1 cups onions – celery – carrots – shallots – saffron – 3 artichokes – starch – dry martini – dry white wine – vinegar – fish broth – extra virgin olive oil for frying – salt – pepper

Preparation:
Gently fry the cod with olive oil, chopped onions, chopped celery, and carrots.
Pour a 1/2 glass of wine and a little water into the pan, and let simmer for 50 minutes. Then drain the cod from the sauce.
Clean it, bone it, and beat it, using a little olive oil, salt, pepper, and a tablespoon of balsamic vinegar.
Then begin to form the dumplings.
Sauce: boil a third of a glass of Martini for 5 minutes (just like wine), with chopped shallot, a piece of celery and carrot, saffron, a little olive oil, and salt.
Add 2 ladles of broth of fish in which you have dissolved a teaspoon of starch.
Allow the sauce to simmer and thicken.
Fry the diced artichokes in hot oil, and then serve them with the cod dumplings and sauce.